samedi 28 février 2015

How to Make a Paper Origami Fox

Learn to make a paper origami fox following these simple instructions. The numbered corners may make it easier for you.


  1. Prepare the paper. You will see what you need in the "Things You'll Need" section.

  2. Number the corners of the paper on one side clockwise.

  3. Fold corner 2 to corner 4.

  4. Bring corner 3 to corner 1 and fold.

  5. Bring corner 3 down to point of corner 4. Align the edges along the right and left side so that the triangle is folded.

  6. Flip the paper over and repeat on the opposite side by bringing corner 1 down to corner 4 so that the triangle is folded in half.

  7. Orientate the paper so that the creased sides are diagonally on the right and bottom with the paper’s edge on the left forming a “W” image.

  8. From the bottom left corner, pinch the right side of the ‘W’ and move it to half way between the left corner and the pinched corner. This creates a fold a quarter of the way on the page. This means you are creating the fox’s legs.

  9. Naturally, the middle point of the ‘W’ will begin folding down. Press it firmly to make the fox’s face.

  10. Run your finger along the creases of the paper, pressing the crease down firmly. This will help your fox to stand properly and appear more defined.


  • You can curl the ears by sticking your finger in the paper sections.

  • The firmer the crease, the better and more defined the image.

  • Some craft stores offer origami paper which is more lightweight and easier to crease. The different quality of the paper gives a different effect to the product.


  • Thinner paper can be torn easily.

Things You'll Need

  • Origami paper or a suitable substitute, in a square

  • Pencil

source How to of the Day

How to Glaze Pottery

Pottery glazes are complex mixtures that fuse to pottery when placed in a high temperature kiln. Glazes are responsible both for decorating the pottery and for creating an attractive glossy surface that protects the pottery from wear and water. While glazing can be a long and involved process, it is not too hard to learn, and results will improve with practice. If you don't have access to a kiln, try to find one before you begin, as described within the Firing section below.


Choosing Pottery and Glazes

  1. Start with an unglazed, hard ceramic. A ceramic shop or artist might direct you to suitable objects they sell. Typically, these objects have gone through a "bisque" firing process to make it hard. Unlike some types of fired ceramic, bisque has a porous, absorbent surface. This allows it to absorb wet glaze, which will then create a protective waterproof finish when the ceramic is fired a second time.

    • Depending on the type of clay used, the bisque ceramic may be white or red.

    • If you have a clay object you made yourself, fire it in the kiln to make it hard but still porous before you glaze. The exact temperature to fire your object depends on its size and type of clay, so if possible ask the advice of an experienced potter. One may be willing to let you use his or her kiln, although the potter may ask for compensation.

  2. Wear disposable gloves while handling the ceramic. The plain "bisque" object you will be glazing should be kept as clean as possible. Even oil from your hands may prevent the glaze from attaching correctly, so wear disposable latex gloves whenever you touch the object you will be glazing.[1] Change them whenever they get dirty, before touching the ceramic.

  3. Purchase pre-mixed glazes if possible. While you may mix your own glazes out of dry powder and water, doing so requires a respirator mask to avoid inhaling what is essentially particles of glass dust.[2] Pre-mixed glazes are less likely to cause problems during firing as well, especially if you have never mixed your own glazes before.

  4. Consider glazes based on their firing temperature. Different glazes require firing at different temperatures to set correctly onto the object. Do not use two glazes that require different firing temperatures on the same object, or you will risk breaking the pottery.

    • Firing temperatures may be listed simply as "high" or "low", or referred to as "cone 2", "cone 4", et cetera. These measurements refer to potters' cones made from different clay types, which sag at different temperatures in the kiln.

  5. Be aware of harmful glaze ingredients. Ask what the glaze is made from before purchasing. Lead-based over-glaze are not recommended for objects that will come into contact with food or drink. Toxic glazes of any type are not recommended if children are involved in the glazing process or have access to the area you will be storing the glazes.

    • Lead-based underglazes with a protective non-lead overglaze will probably be safe initially, if the glaze was fired properly. However, lead may begin to leach through the glaze after prolonged use, especially if the ceramic is frequently scrubbed or exposed to high-acid foods such as tomatoes. Stop using the dish immediately if you see powder or cracking at the glaze's surface.

  6. Purchase one or more underglazes based on their post-firing color. Underglazes come in a variety of colors and are intended for decorating or painting an object. You may use as many colors of underglazes as you like to decorate your pot.[3] However, realize that glazes undergo a chemical process inside the kiln that can alter their color dramatically. Look at the colors on the manufacturer's glazing chart to see examples of the glazes' final color. Do not assume a fired glaze will look the same as it appears before firing.

  7. Purchase an overglaze. Whether or not you decide to decorate your ceramic object with underglazes, you will always require a single overglaze. This creates a glossy, protective finish over the surface of the object. Pick a clear overglaze that won't hide the color of the underglaze(s), or if you aren't using underglazes, pick an overglaze of any color.

    • Note: As described above, you must use glazes that fire at the same temperature if you are using multiple glazes on one object. If you fire a glaze at the wrong temperature, your object could be damaged.

Preparing the Object and Glazes

  1. Sand bumps or imperfections off the surface. If you notice any bumps on the object that aren't supposed to be there, you may sand them off using 100 grit sandpaper until you create a smooth surface.[4] Be sure to wipe the object afterward with a damp sponge to remove dust created during sanding.

    • If you purchased an object intended for glazing, most if not all imperfections should be removed.

  2. Wipe the ceramic with a damp sponge before you begin and whenever it gets dirty. Before you begin, and whenever the ceramic becomes dirty or you apply too much glaze, wipe with a damp sponge. Avoid rinsing or dripping excess water onto the ceramic. Use each side of the sponge sparingly to keep it as clean as possible; you may want to have several on hand.

    • Remember, you should reduce the amount of dirt or oil on the ceramic by wearing disposable gloves whenever you handle it.

  3. Apply wax to the base of your object, and wherever two removable parts meet. A coating of wax prevents glaze from sticking to the base of the ceramic, where it would "glue" your object to the base of the kiln. For the same reason, apply the wax to the rim where a lid touches, or anywhere else two distinct pieces will touch during firing.[5] While some potters use slightly heated paraffin wax for this purpose, a safer and less smelly option is "wax resist" designed for this purpose at ceramic shops or some art supply stores. You may apply wax resist and apply it with a paint brush. Keep this brush separate from your glazes.[6]

    • Crayons may be rubbed on the object to create a wax coating, but there is a possibility that the colors in the crayon wax end up on your pottery.

    • If you are glazing pottery with children, you may find it easier to skip this step and hot glue the children's glazed objects to a clay disc immediately before firing, in order to catch dripping glaze.[7]

  4. If you are mixing your own glazes, follow instructions and safety procedures carefully. A pre-mixed glaze is recommended for your first few projects (at least) due to the safety hazard and difficulties involved in mixing your own glaze. If you do decide to mix a dry glaze powder with water, follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully or your glaze may not achieve the desired characteristics. Always wear a respirator mask to avoid inhaling dry glaze particles, and work outside or in a well-ventilated room. Do not let anyone near the work area without a respirator mask.[8] Gloves and safety goggles are recommended.

    • While full instructions are not included here due to the variations between different glaze mixes, you will need water, a long stirring spoon, and a hydrometer to test the density, or "specific gravity", of the glaze.[9]

Applying the Glaze

  1. Stir each glaze thoroughly. Even if you purchased pre-mixed glazes, they may require stirring to return them to an even consistency before you apply them. Follow the instructions on the packaging and stir until there is no sludge on the bottom or watery layer on top.[10]

  2. Pour each glaze into a small dish with its own brush. Keep each color separate and use different brushes to avoid mixing them. Pour them into a small container rather than dipping the brush directly into the jar. This helps keep the remaining glaze clean for later projects.

  3. Apply the under-glaze with your brushes. Decorate the object however you wish using brushes dipped in the underglazes. This is an open-ended process, and you may choose to get creative and drip, flick, or even spray the glaze on if you want a different effect than detailed brushwork. It is also completely acceptable to cover the entire surface with a single underglaze if you want a simple, solid color.

    • Keep in mind the final color of each glaze when you choose your design.

    • Intentional drips are often used to great effect by ceramic artists, but be aware that thick drips may alter the texture of the pottery and could cause improper firing.

  4. Scrape off undesired glaze with a metal object. If you apply glaze in the wrong place, or if it begins to drip, scrape it off with a knife or other metal object. Wipe with a damp sponge afterward.[11]

    • Clean the knife thoroughly in hot, soapy water before using it for food-related purposes.

  5. Glaze the inside of hollow containers with narrow openings. If you are glazing a ceramic pot, mug, or other object with an inside surface, it may be difficult to see inside or reach in with the brush. Instead, you could pour a small amount of glaze inside and roll the object around in your gloved hands to apply it evenly.[12]

  6. Let each layer of glaze dry before applying the next. Before you attempt to apply a different color of underglaze, or the final overglaze finish, you must wait for your ceramic object to dry. This will happen faster if you keep it in an area with good air flow. Do not apply a new type of glaze until the old glaze no longer appears shiny and wet, and does not smudge when your brush touches it.

  7. Finish by applying an overglaze. If you have a pair of potter's tongs, the easiest way to accomplish this is to pick up the object with the tongs and dip it in a container holding the overglaze for one to three seconds. If you would like a thicker, glossier finish, dip the object for a shorter period of time, allow to dry fully, then dip again. You may dip several times, but the total application time of all dips should be no more than three seconds.[13]

    • You may also brush on the overglaze. Do this so the surface is completely covered with a thin layer. It is better to allow the ceramic to dry and apply a second thin layer than to apply too much glaze in one go.

  8. Wipe off glaze from surfaces that will stick to the kiln. Also, wipe them from surfaces that will be in contact with other ceramic objects in the kiln, such as a lid. If you followed the instructions above, the base of your object should be coated with wax. This will make it easy to wipe off any glaze drips that would otherwise attach your object to the floor of the kiln. Use a clean, damp sponge.

    • Wipe off glaze from these surfaces after each application of glaze, before it dries.

    • If your glaze seems runny or drips heavily, you may wish to leave the bottom 1/4inch (6mm) or more of the object's sides unglazed. Even many professional artists do this.[14]

Firing the Glaze

  1. Search for a publicly accessible kiln. Purchasing your own kiln can be expensive. If you live near an urban area, there are likely pottery studios that allow anyone to rent space in the kiln. Search online for kilns in your area, or for pottery studios that you could contact and offer to rent kiln space from.

    • If you live in the United States, this listing of kilns may be helpful, although there are many more not listed.

  2. Seek experienced assistance if you need to purchase or operate your own kiln. If you end up needing to purchase a personal kiln, you'll probably want a more portable electric kiln. There are many factors to consider, including expense, wiring, and which additional tools to purchase. Kiln operation is complex and potentially dangerous, and you may wish to find an experienced potter to guide you through the first few times you use it.

  3. Fire the glaze according to instructions. Glazes are either low temperature or high temperature, and firing them at the wrong setting may cause the ceramic to break or the glaze to fail to set. Make sure the kiln you are using is set to the correct "cone" as described on the glaze packaging.

    • If you are dropping off your ceramic object at a studio for the employees to fire later, include a note detailing the firing temperature. Do not attach this note directly to the glazed object.

  4. Retrieve your ceramic after several hours. There are many different ways to operate a kiln, and some processes may require more time than others. Regardless, you should allow several hours for firing before your object is ready. If the kiln is used by many people, your object may not be ready for a day or two. Once it is done firing and has completely cooled, your object should be ready to take home and admire.

    • Note that your wax should burn off in the kiln. If it is still attached, or has melted onto the glaze, try using a different type of wax next time.


  • Clean your materials as frequently as possible to avoid mixing materials. Keep your wax brush and glaze brushes separate unless completely cleaned in between uses.

  • There are hundreds of types of pottery and glazes. An experienced potter or specialized pottery instruction book may be able to teach you many more methods of decorating ceramic or creating unique effects with the glaze.


  • Try not to apply too much glaze, or it will run and create an uneven coating. Use enough with each layer to fully coat the object, but no more.

Things You'll Need

  • "Bisque" ceramic object

  • One or more underglazes (that fire at the same temperature)

  • One overglaze

  • Wax resist

  • Two or more brushes

  • Sponges

  • Clean water

  • Clean containers for glaze mixing

  • Metal object for scraping

  • Glaze tongs

  • Kiln

  • Kiln Spur

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

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source How to of the Day

vendredi 27 février 2015

How to Entertain a One Year Old

Whether you're babysitting your niece or you want to get your new baby happily across the state to grandma's house, you're going to want to keep your child entertained! There are lots of great ways to do this, depending on what you have available and what you're trying to do. In this article, you'll find that wikiHow has covered all the bases, giving you great ideas whether you're going in well prepared or you have absolutely nothing to work with. Just get started with Step 1 below or check out the sections listed above to find the help that you need.


Engaging At Home

  1. Play the stacking game. A favorite game for many babies, this game can be played anywhere with no extra baby toys needed. To play this game, simply take any small objects you can, stack them together, and then knock the stack down. Baby will have fun knocking the stack down on their own too! This game is best done with toy blocks, but you can use any items you can find (so long as they won't break when you knock the stack over).

    • You can use tin cans (preferably empty and sealed off on top), plastic cups, small boxes, and food items, among other small objects that can be found in your house.

    • Toy blocks are cheap, easy to find (sets can be frequently found at garage sales for about a $1), and also easy to store so if you think you'll be entertaining babies on occasion then you might want to consider keeping a set just as a backup option.

  2. Let them play in the bath. As long as you're willing to watch them vigilantly, a sink or bath-full of water is an easy way to keep a baby entertained for about an hour. You might not want to actually wash them, since too much soap can be irritating for their skin, but you can let them splash in the water with a couple of toys.

    • Again, this can be very dangerous. Babies can drown if you turn your back for even a second. Even just a little water in their lungs can be dangerous. If you want to take this route, you'll need to be really serious about paying attention.

    • If you don't have bath toys for babies, you can make a hand puppet out of a washcloth or a boat out of a Tupperware container.

  3. Read a book. Even though babies can't read or understand much language, they often love to read books. They'll be especially easy to engage if you read the books in the right way for a baby. Don't just read the text like you would for a child who can understand the words: take a more lively approach. Move your hand around the page, bouncing and sweeping, as you tell the child what's happening in the picture. Keep your voice energetic and show lots of exaggerated emotion. Baby will be fascinated!

    • "Goodnight Moon" comes highly recommended for babies (it is, for some reason, almost addictive for small children), as do "Brown Bear, Brown Bear", "The Very Hungry Caterpillar", and "Pat the Bunny".

  4. Do an art project. Babies don't have a lot of fine motor control but that doesn't mean that they're not hiding a little inner Van Gogh. Art is great at not only keeping them entertained but it's also an excellent way to stimulate their brains, give them important sensory experiences, and help them build those motor skills that they'll need to keep developing.

    • An easy project to do is to make a card for one of baby's family members. This can be a just-because card for mom, a birthday card for grandma, or a thank you card for brother or sister. Take a sheet of printer paper and fold it in half to make the card. Then, paint baby's hand and make a hand print on the front of the card.

    • Another good option is your old friend the coloring crayon. You'll probably need to pay attention to make sure it doesn't just go straight into baby's mouth, but a crayon and paper should be more than enough to get baby's interest.

  5. Play shadow games. Babies are just starting to get the concept of shadows, so find a way to get them interested in this new concept by playing a game with shadows.[1] The easiest way is to cut a butterfly shape out of a piece of paper and then shine a flashlight at it. Get your baby to try to chase the butterfly!

    • If you have the time and materials, you can also make full shadow puppets, which can be useful for making baby-safe "TV" that keeps your baby entertained.

  6. Bring out the bubbles. Bubbles is to babies as video games are to teenage boys. They will go nuts for bubbles. This is an easy way to fill up an hour and keep your baby feeling happy and energetic. It's also useful for motivating your baby to move around and do things you ask, making it a great way to teach them how to say things like "more".

Keeping Busy on the Go

  1. Try to time car and stroller activity with nap time. Your best bet, of course, is to try and time anything you have to do out and away from home with when your baby takes a nap. By making sure that they're sleeping while you're out, this will reduce how much you have to worry about keeping them entertained.

    • For example, put them in a baby carrier right before naptime and then do your grocery shopping. They'll fall asleep on your chest and let you get your shopping done without a shouting match.

    • Another example is if you have to go on an airplane or a car trip. Schedule the travel to coincide with baby's nighttime sleep routine. Get them ready for bed but instead of putting them in bed, put them in the car. They sleep and let you drive in peace.

  2. Keep attachable toys. For strollers and car seats, the thing that will help you the most is getting and keeping on hand some toys which can attach to where your child will be sitting. Babies love to throw their toys over the side or down onto the ground or floor, making them cry and creating more work for you. By keeping toys which latch onto the seat, you make sure that baby can get their toy back whenever they want.

  3. Keep food on hand. For keeping your junior happy and entertained while you're out and about, food can be crucial. They might not be really hungry, but taking the time to pick through a bowl of Cheerios can buy you just enough time to get through the line at the post office without a boredom meltdown.

    • Try to choose snacks that baby can eat alone. Small items that take a lot of time to eat are a great choice here. Cheerios, raisins, apple chips, and seedless grapes (halved or quartered is best) are all good options here.

    • Avoid hard foods, unhealthy foods, and foods which are difficult to chew and swallow (like peanut butter). This is especially important when you're in the car, since it's harder for you to notice when baby chokes. Also avoid messy foods like peas, which easily roll away from baby.

  4. Try the transfer game for plane rides. Bring a series of nesting tupperware containers and a bag of dried peas or beans. Put baby to the task of transferring beans from one tupperware and into another. This will easily keep them entertained for hours.

    • If you didn't bring these materials with you or if you can't, you can use stuff that's found on the airplane in a pinch. Ask for some empty coffee cups and a few bags of peanuts.

  5. Use a mirror for car trips. Many parents use a rear-facing car seat (which is the safest method for a one year old), but this can leave your baby feeling stressed because they can't see you. Get a mirror which attaches to their seat. Not only will this reduce their stress by helping them see you, they can also entertain themself by looking at their reflection.

Using Minimal Tools

  1. Make a toy out of your keys. As long as you pay a little attention and are sure to remove items that might be very dangerous for them (like sharp beer bottle openers), keys are a great emergency toy for a baby. You can jingle the keys in front of them and watch as they shake them around. They're also a great candidate for baby's favorite game: dropping things and making you pick them back up.

    • Again, you'll really need to pay attention here. Make sure baby doesn't get those keys too close to anyone's eyes (including their own)!

  2. Give them paper to rip. Ripping scrap paper is a great game for a baby and a great way to prove that you don't need a lot of fancy toys to keep a baby entertained. Pull some old newspapers out of the recycling and show baby how to rip them. Then, let her give it a try!

  3. Make a "bank". Find a box, an old coffee can, or any container which you can cut a slot into with scissors or a box cutter (only cut into the plastic lid of a coffee can). Now find items that can be fit into the slot and are safe for baby. Plastic lids from Tupperware or canned items are good. You can also fold up think paper squares or even use food items, like biscuits. Baby will be thrilled with the "thunk" sound and the fun task of getting the object into the slot.

  4. Sing children's songs that include movements. You don't need anything but your voice to entertain a baby if you're willing to sing some songs. Babies may not understand the words but they'll love watching you move your fingers and your hands to act out any song with a lot of energy.

  5. Play Peek-a-Boo. Peek-a-Boo is such a basic that many people don't realize just how much children love this game. Your baby will scream with laughter as you hide behind your hands or other objects in the room and then pop out with a big smile.

    • Towels or other pieces of fabric are particularly useful for playing Peek-a-Boo.

  6. Download an app. In a real pinch, babies love cell phones. These are entrancing. If you have nothing else, you can at least keep a baby entertained for awhile by giving them your cell phone. Just be sure to pay attention and make sure they don't drop it.

    • Try Peek-a-Boo Barn, Bubbles (which just lets your baby pop bubbles), or any one of a number of flashcard apps for small children.

    • Try sitting the baby on a soft surface on the ground. This will make it easier to keep your phone safe.


  • Don't forget to check all of their basic needs. If they're in need of changing, tired, or hungry, all the songs in the world aren't going to keep them happy.


  • If you're taking care of a child that's not yours, always check with the parents about anything you might need to know about the child.

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

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source How to of the Day

How to Grow Poppies

Poppies are versatile, show-stopping plants that include several varieties, from the big, bold Oriental poppy, which can grow as tall as 4 feet (122cm), to the demure Alpine poppy, topping out at about 10 inches (25cm). Poppies are tough plants that can thrive in any well-draining soil, although these tips will teach you how to grow them to encourage a healthy, blooming flowerbed. Once you have flowering poppies, you will likely have enough seeds to plant new poppies year after year.


Planting the Seeds

  1. Prepare to plant in autumn or early spring, depending on your local climate. Poppy seeds require exposure to cool or cold temperatures before they will reliably sprout. As long as the winter temperatures in your area do not fall below 0ºF (-18ºC), you may plant the seeds in autumn, before the first frost. In colder climates or if convenient, plant the poppy seeds in spring, as soon as the ground thaws.[1]

    • The temperatures that allow for autumn planting correspond to United States Plant Hardiness Zones 7 and higher.[2]

    • If the winter temperatures in your area fall below -20ºF (-29ºC), consider planting the cold-resistant Iceland poppy.[3]

  2. Consider planting in several stages. If you divide your poppy seeds into groups and plant each group a week or two apart, your garden will have colorful flowers for a longer period of time. You may wish to plant half your seeds in autumn and half in spring to see which group suits your climate and poppy variety best.

  3. Select an area with full sun or partial shade. Generally, poppies grow best when they receive at least six hours of sunlight a day. However, if you live in a hot climate, select a spot where the poppies will be protected during the intense heat of the afternoon.

    • Purple poppies may retain a brighter, more attractive color in partial shade than in full sun.[4]

  4. Test soil drainage. Soil with excellent water drainage is crucial, as poppies will rot in waterlogged soil. This is especially important during winter, when soil becomes wet or frozen. Begin testing by digging a hole 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Fill the hole with water, allow it to drain completely, then fill it a second time. Time how long it takes to drain again: this should take no more than four hours at the very most, and preferably less.[5]

  5. Improve soil quality and drainage if necessary. If you cannot find a location in your yard with good drainage, try mixing the top 2 inches (5cm) of soil with compost, or building a raised bed. Perennial poppies, which are able to live for longer than one year, may require compost or a store-bought garden soil to thrive even if the existing drainage is adequate.[6]

  6. Till the soil to loosen it if necessary. Use a shovel or tiller to loosen compact soil to a depth of approximately 8 inches (20cm). Poppy seeds grow one long taproot straight downward to collect water, and may not be able to push this important root through soil that is too hard.[7]

  7. Mix the poppy seeds with sand. Pour the poppy seeds in a small container such as a pill bottle or pepper shaker. Add some sand, roughly twice as much by volume as the poppy seeds, and stir or shake them together. Poppy seeds are tiny and can clump together when sown. The sand will help space the seeds out, making it easier to plant them evenly.[8]

  8. Scatter the mixture of seeds and sand barely under the soil. Sprinkle the poppy seeds and sand directly on top of the soil, then cover the seeds with a light dusting of fine soil. Don't bury the seeds, as too much soil will block available sunlight and prevent the tiny poppy seeds from germinating.[9]

    • Avoid planting the seeds in clumps, which will interfere with growth. If you are planting poppies across a large area, take handfuls of seed and sand mixture and throw them out away from you as you walk across the garden or field.

  9. Water the newly-planted poppy seeds. Use a watering can or spray bottle rather than a strong hose, in order to prevent washing away the tiny poppy seeds. Keep the soil lightly moist once mild spring weather begins. Depending on the poppy variety, it should then take 10 to 30 days for the seeds to sprout.

Caring for Poppy Plants

  1. Water as necessary. Poppy plants may rot and die in soaked soils, so only water when the soil feels dry to a finger's depth. Typically, you only need to water the plants once every several days. Increase the amount of water per watering session in hot weather or if the poppies turn brown.

    • Avoid watering plants during the early afternoon, especially in sunny weather. The heated water can burn the leaves, and it may evaporate before it can be absorbed.

  2. Reduce the chance of weeds. While it's a good idea to remove weeds competing with your poppies as you see them, young poppy plants are small and easily pulled up by accident or mistaken for undesirable plants. Reduce the ability of weeds to grow in the first place by spreading two to three inches (6 to 8 cm) of organic mulch around the plants. A mulch such as bark chips will look attractive, and will keep the soil moist

  3. Cut out excess poppy plants once they've started to grow. Once the plants are one or two inches tall (2.5–5 cm), cut the smaller or weaker plants at the base using garden shears. Keep each remaining plant at least 6 inches (15cm) apart for the best chance at healthy growth and flowering.

    • Do not pull the plants out as this may disturb the root systems of the neighboring poppies.

    • Spacing plants out in this manner may also reduce the chance of mold and pest attacks, due to good air circulation and lower frequency of transmitting these problems from one plant to another.[10]

  4. Fertilize only if necessary. Poppies may seem thin and weak, but they are actually quite sturdy plants capable of growing on their own. If you do wish to hasten the growing rate, or if you soil is poor, you may add fertilizer once the plants are at least 5 inches (13cm) tall, and preferably 10 inches (26cm) for taller species. Use a low nitrogen, neutral pH fertilizer and apply as instructed on the packaging.[11]

    • Fertilizers display the balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium using three numbers. A low nitrogen fertilizer will have a lower first number, for example 2-5-5.

  5. Remove dead blooms for additional flowers, or leave them on to cause the plants to seed. Removing the spent blooms where they meet the stalk will encourage the plant to keep blooming throughout the summer. If left alone, the plants will turn yellow and wilt, but after several weeks they will drop their seeds naturally and likely result in dozens of new plants next year.[12]

    • Note that you should not cut off withered leaves from perennials if you would like them to remain healthy and bloom again next year.[13] Allow the leaves to die naturally, and hide the brown color with longer-blooming flower varieties if you wish to keep your garden colorful.

  6. Acquire seeds from your best plants. If you would like a new crop of poppy seeds, cut off the bulbous seed pods once they stand vertical and feel chalky to the touch. Dry them in the sunlight, cut them open, and shake them through a sieve over a container to catch the poppy seeds in.[14] Because each plant produces hundreds of seeds, limit your collection to the healthiest and most attractive plants.

Transplanting Poppy Plants

  1. Avoid transplanting adult plants where possible. Transplanting plants allow you to place the poppies more accurately, rather than casting them across the garden and seeing which seeds mature. However, due to their single, fragile taproot, poppies are easily killed during transplanting, especially large, adult plants. If possible, transplant poppy plants when they are young seedlings less than 3 inches (7.5cm) tall, and leave adult plants in their current container.

    • If you must transplant adult, perennial poppy plants, try to do so in late summer, after the most active growth period but before they begin to seed.[15]

  2. Check the soil in your new location. Poppies require loose, well draining soil, and exposure to at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. Improve the soil by mixing in compost or manure if necessary.

    • More detail can be found in the section on planting seeds.

  3. Transplant in the evening if possible. Poppies are infamously fragile after transplanting, and they are more likely to die if they are exposed to more sunlight. Transplant in the early evening whenever possible to give them a full night of darkness to adjust to their new situation.[16]

  4. Water the seedlings an hour before transplanting. It may take time for the poppies to adjust to the new location before the root begins to take in more water. Make sure they have at least some water stored already by watering them an hour or more before the transplant.[17]

  5. Dig a hole in the new location larger than the root ball. If you were growing your seedling in a small container, make the hole larger than the container. Otherwise, you may need to guess at the size required, or pull out an extra seedling you do not intend to grow to examine its size.

  6. Remove a clump of soil around the poppy plant carefully. If you are transplanting from a container of several seedlings, carefully gather the soil around a central seedling, detaching other seedlings in the soil or moving them to the edge of the pot. This central seedling should not be handled directly, in order to minimize the damage.

  7. Plant the poppy plant to the same depth in the new soil. Try to keep the plant buried at the same depth it was before. Move it as gently as possible to avoid damaging the roots. Pack the soil loosely around the plant. Water it to hold the soil together, then care for it as you would any poppy plant.[18]



  • If you plant poppies in pots, thin the young seedlings down to one per pot once they reach 1 inch (2.5cm) in height. Use a biodegradable pot that can be planted directly in the soil if you plan to move them to your garden later, since poppies handle transplants poorly.


  • Slugs can threaten young poppy seedlings. Protect the plants by using disposable, clear plastic cups as mini greenhouses until the plants have out-grown them. Cut a few holes near the top of the upside down cups and weigh them down with a rock.

  • If mold has started growing on a poppy plant, you may attempt to treat with a gardener's fungicide, but the plant has a low chance of survival. Keep plants spaced out and reduce watering to prevent creating an environment where mold can thrive.

Things You'll Need

  • Manure or compost

  • Poppy seeds

  • Pill bottle or small container

  • Sand

  • Stick or hoe

  • Hose and spray nozzle or watering can

  • General purpose liquid or granular fertilizer

  • Organic mulch

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

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