Old books are wonderful treasures to find, and some can even be worth money, but they often come with a musty smell as well. Although it can be tough, you can remove, or at least reduce, that mouldy scent at home.
Steps
Why books can smell mildewed or musty
- Check for dampness. Dampness, wetness and total soaking of a book is the primary cause of mildew or mustiness in a book, providing an ideal growth medium for mold, bacteria or fungus (which can all smell bad). Regardless of the cause of the excess moisture left on books, this moisture can cause pages to stick together and/or nurture mildew growth. Dropping the book in the bath can cause total havoc, while leaving a book next to a damp wall without knowing can cause gradual mildewing. Storage of books can often result in bad odors from mildew. If you don't know whether the book has been wet in the past, some telltale signs include:
- Pages stuck together (especially around the edges), but it can be the whole way through. Often chunks of pages can be stuck together, leaving others to freely turn.
- Discoloration, such as brown or black speckling, yellowing, and the like.
- Actual mildew or mold growing on the spine or cover of the book, especially if the book is old and the cover is made from something organic, like leather or paper (no plastic).
- It smells like mildew or it's musty (smells like a damp cellar/basement).
- Check for cigarette smoke damage. Another cause of a musty odor can be exposure to cigarette smoking. Books will look yellowed, may be speckled (brown spots running up and down page edges and often across inner pages of book; also known as "foxing") and there may be a stinky smoky odor as well as a musty one, depending on how long it has been since the book was in the smoky location (being absorbent, book paper can stink of cigarette smoke for years).
Fixing immediate sources of dampness
- If upon picking up the book, you can feel it is damp and see wet or damp pages clumping together, deal with it immediately. The longer a book is left, the harder it will be to fix and the more likely mildew will grow.
- Stand the book upright on a table. Fan out the pages gently. If your fingers can't disentangle pages without ripping, use a letter opener and tweezers to help finer page separation. Alternatively, you can try to blow into the pages from the top to fan the pages out. Apply one strip of adhesive tape over the fan to keep the pages separated.
- Let stand to dry in a warm spot free of moisture. Leave long enough to ensure that every page is nice and dry.
- You could try direct sunlight if the book isn't valuable, just useful. However, be aware that direct sunlight may fade the book and for older, valuable books, could lead to disintegration, discoloration or curling up of the pages permanently. Usually, warmth but not direct sunlight is the best approach.
Using an absorbent to remove moldy or musty odors
It's assumed that by this stage, you've dried the book or simply have a dry book and you now want it to be odor-free to enable it to be read again. Keep in mind that the dust introduced by these methods might linger in the book and cause damage down the line.
- Try silica. You can purchase silica from an arts and crafts store.
- Try kitty litter. You'll need a large container, like a Rubbermaid tub and a smaller container, as well as an absorbent, like baking soda, cat litter, or charcoal.
- Fill the larger container halfway with kitty litter.
- Place your smelly book or books in the bottom of the smaller container. Place the container above the kitty litter inside the larger container.
- Seal the larger container tightly, and leave the book to sit in the absorbent for a few days.
- Check every few days. If the odor has gone, remove the book or books and dust down (a new paintbrush is ideal for dusting with). If not, repeat until the book smells a lot better.
- Store in a clean, dry place to avoid reintroducing the mildew or musty odor.
- Activated charcoal or charcoal briquettes can be substituted for kitty litter in the method outlined above. Just be careful not to bring the book into direct contact with the charcoal or it may sustain blackening marks.
- Try baking soda. Place a cup of baking soda into a plastic box or bin. Place the book or books (this method is great for more than one book) inside and seal the lid well. Leave for 48-72 hours, then check. Repeat until the odor has gone.
- Another approach if you live where it's dry heat and sunny: Sprinkle baking soda between the pages, perhaps every 10 pages or so. Leave the book open in the sunshine for a few days in a row, turning pages often (bring in at night). Sniff to see if it has improved and continue until it smells better. This won't work on all mildew or musty odors, but it can be helpful for some. (Be sure not to leave the book exposed to wind or rain.) This is not advised for valuable or antique books, or those already showing notable page yellowing or brittleness; it may make the book's condition worse.
- Place newspaper between the pages. Place a sheet of newspaper between every few pages of the book. Do not use on valuable or old books, only cheaper ones (newspaper is acidic and it may transfer ink to the book).
- Scrunch up balls of newspaper and toss inside a resealable plastic container or bag.
- Place the book in and seal or add the lid.
- Leave for 3-5 days.
- Remove all the newspaper. The book will hopefully smell better. Do not leave books wrapped in newspaper, as this can harm the book long-term.
Hiding the odor
Sometimes, no matter what else you have tried, the odor lingers. Here is where you can try to mask the smell and hope that the result makes reading the book bearable. Note that none of the following should be done with a valuable old book as the perfumes and chemicals in the items used to cover up the odor can introduce elements harmful to the book's paper. Occasionally, the musty or mildewy odor might be better than ending with a crumbling book! (Librarians and antiquarians look away now.)
- Use fabric softener sheets. Just as these sheets absorb odors from fabric, they can do so for books too. Try the following:
- Cut a bunch of sheets into thirds, and put one between every 20 pages or so in your smelly book.
- Keep it in a zipper bag for a few days, and the musty smell should be gone.
- This method is good for preventing the musty smell across many books as well––just put a piece of a fabric softener sheet in about every fifth book on your bookshelf.
- Cut a small square of fresh fragrant drawer liner. Place inside the book. You might like to use 2-3 pieces, depending on the size of the book.
- Place inside a resealable plastic bag. Let sit in a dry spot for a week or two.
- Check now and then to see if the fresher odor has been transferred to the book. Continue until the books smells a lot better.
- Use a strong essential oil. Add drops of an essential oil like lavender, eucalyptus or tea-tree oil to some cotton balls. Place in a resealable plastic bag. Add the book and seal. Remove after a few days; you should find the book smells more like the essential oil than it once smelled like. Because of the risk of oil spots, only do this with books that don't have great value other than needing to be read, such as a moldy-but-useful textbook.
Future storage
- Check all storage areas before re-storing books anywhere. Ideally, the area should be dry and neither too cold nor too hot, as coldness can encourage dampness and heat can dry out paper and cause it to crumble. Excessive humidity is bad all round, so find storage with low humidity or do something to reduce the humidity. And do not sit plastic containers in direct sunlight or near heat sources where they may develop condensation which has nowhere else to drip but onto the stored books!
- Check that bookcases are not up against moldy, cold and damp walls.
- Check the attic or basement for leaks, mildew and dampness.
- Check any storage facility for bad odors and signs of mildew or dampness before signing up to storage.
- Use appropriate storage containers.
- Choose plastic boxes if the storage area is prone to leaks or dampness. However, add silica gel sachets in case of condensation.
- Don't fill bookshelves too full; allow some air circulation between books.
- Add clear dust jackets. These can help keep moisture away from the book. It's easier to replace dust jackets than the book cover itself or its binding.
Tips
- It is advisable to protect any valuable collectible book (e.g. a rare comic book or an antiquarian volume that is otherwise in great condition) in bags made of archival polyester (e.g. Mylar), or for shorter-term storage, polypropylene or polyethylene; these are available from book dealers, comic book stores and online retailers in a wide variety of sizes. Inclusion of a 100% acid-free backer board (replaced every few years) may help leech acids out of the book and extend it's "lifespan".
- Some strong odors, including mildew, acidity, smoke and pet smells, can be hard to remove. Months of sitting open on a table with frequent dusting and page turning, or (for hardbacks with good bindings) sitting upright on a shelf with pages fanned open a bit, may gradually help.
- Why couldn't you put a damp book in bin with some silica gel packets? They are a desiccant and come in shoe boxes, new purses etc.
- Try Microwaving for 10 to 15 seconds. Take the book out. (Caution: It may be hot, use a potholder!) - repeat a couple times if necessary. No longer than 15 seconds at a time, then let it cool!
- Thymol can be used to destroy some book molds but it requires special application; seek instructions from a bookseller used to dealing with it.
- You can't change the color of a book from yellow back to white. The yellowing is due to acids in the paper which eventually cause some level of deterioration, which may include yellowing or even browning, an acrid odor, and brittleness. Love the book while you have it, and consider getting it digitized if it looks like it's falling to pieces and is not already available online from Google Books or Project Gutenberg. In general, yellowing isn't a cause of musty or moldy odors unless the book has been exposed to excessive light and heat, but books all have their own unique scents and perhaps one of the above methods can improve a bad smell not initiating from contamination.
- Not all musty odors are due to mildew or other contamination. If a book shows no signs of water damage or staining and came from a smoke-free environment, but still smells a bit like a dank, sour basement, the acids in the paper may simply have been excessively oxidizing. Almost all books up to the end of the 20th century (and most low-end, mass market books still today) use paper that has residual acids in it from the manufacturing process. An acid-degraded paper odor results almost inevitably from a combination of age and exposure to heat.
Warnings
- If the book is a valuable collectible, don't do anything before seeking out an archival preservation or book restoration specialist for professional advice or services. Better safe than sorry! Local dealers in rare books are a good place to start. Never apply tape, glue, cleaning fluids or anything else not specifically advised for book restoration, or irreversible damage may result.
- When using cat litter as an absorbent, use low-dust litter, as you do not want dust to infiltrate the spine or binding of the book being treated. As an aside about cat litter, keep cat boxes away from bookshelves, as cats can track soiled litter onto and into nearby books. Litter box odor can infiltrate your books' paper over time and be difficult to dissipate.
- Bleach of any sort, and most other household or industrial cleaners, will damage and perhaps even destroy books.
- While excessive moisture can lead to contamination problems, excessively dry pages in older books may tear more easily. Do not keep books in too dry an environment for too long. Freezing, because it has a drying effect, is another enemy of books. If your books must go in a storage unit, make it an indoor one with baseline climate control.
- Avoid prolonged direct sunlight and other heat sources (radiators, storage in metal sheds) and bright light sources (plant grow lamps, halogen lights near bookshelves). They can drastically accelerate the gradual damage that the paper's own acids do to it over time. Heat and light also cause colors to bleach, binding glue to degrade, and other deterioration. A day or two won't cause any harm, but even one week on a table that receives direct sunlight most of the day is enough to noticeably fade many book covers, and will intensify the acidic mustiness of an old book.
- Be careful with silica packets if you have pets, especially cats. Dispose of them quickly and securely.
Sources and Citations
- http://ift.tt/1SSewHW – research source
- http://ift.tt/1eUDHa8 – research source
source How to of the Day http://ift.tt/1q3XPeS
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