How to Stake Tomato Plants

It’s necessary to support tomatoes as they grow so that they’re cleaner, less susceptible to disease, and able to become fully ripe. There are many ways that you can stake your tomato plants so that they stay supported and off of the ground. Consider going the traditional route and using single stakes. You can also try to stake them using other methods, including caging and using trellises.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Using a Single Stake

1. Plant your tomatoes (0.6-1.2 m) apart to accommodate staking. Pick a location that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight each day to plant your plants. Till the soil with a hand shovel and mix in some manure, fertilizer, or compost. Dig holes that are (0.6-1.2 m) apart and deep enough to accommodate your transplants. Then put the transplants in the holes and fill in any spaces with soil.^[1]
   
   • You can purchase transplants from a local garden center. If you’d rather grow your tomatoes from seed, start germinating them indoors 6-8 weeks before the last spring frost.
2. Purchase 6-8 foot (1.8-2.4 m) stakes. If you’re supporting your tomato plants with single stakes, go to your local garden center and purchase ones made of wood, plastic, or bamboo. Make sure these stakes are somewhere between 6 and 8 feet (1.8-2.4 m) tall so that the plants can continue to grow and be properly supported.^[2]
   
   • Single stakes are easy to install, remove, and store. They also make harvesting a quick, simple process.
   • If you are using wooden stakes to support the tomato plants, do not use treated wood. This can cause chemicals to be transferred into the ground.
3. Place the tip of the stake 3-6 inches (7.6-15.2 cm) away from the plant. Use a compass to locate the north side of the tomato plant and measure 3 inches (7.6 cm) out. Position the stake here to expose the plant to the proper amount of sunlight.^[3]
   
4. Insert the stake 6-8 inches (15.2-20.3 cm) into the ground. Use a hammer or mallet to pound each stake at least 6-8 inches (15.2-20.3 cm) deep into the ground so that they’re strong and stable.^[4] Do this immediately after planting the tomato plants in order to prevent root damage.
   
5. Tie the main stem to the stake once the plant is 6 inches (15.2 cm) tall. Use garden twine, a strip of fabric, or a strip of pantyhose to tie a loose loop around the thickest, main stem of the plant with one end and a tight knot around a low point on the stake with the other. Use 2 or 3 pieces of twine, fabric, or pantyhose to secure the tomato plant to the stake.^[5]
   
   • The stems will be soft and can become damaged easily, so it’s important to keep the ties as loose as possible while also keeping them tight enough to hold the plant up.
6. Continue tying the stem to the stake as it grows. Monitor the plant’s growth and tie the main stem to the stake every time it grows another 6-8 inches (15.2-20.3 cm). This will keep the tomato plant supported and growing in the right direction.^[6]
   
7. Prune the tomato plants’ suckers. This will make the plant’s stems stronger and allow the plant to grow bigger tomatoes. Check the tomato plants every few days for side stems, or “suckers,” that grow in between the main stem and the leaves. Use your fingers to snap them off or snip with hand pruners.^[7]
   
8. Remove, clean, and store the stakes in the fall. In autumn, harvest is over and the plants will no longer produce tomatoes. At this point, untie your ties and pull your stakes out of the ground. Spray a disinfecting solution on the stakes, allow them to air dry, and bundle them with a strong rope. Keep them properly stored indoors in a cool, dry area until spring.^[8]
   
   • If you want to make your own disinfectant spray, fill a bottle with 9 parts water and 1 part bleach and then shake it up before spraying.
   • Consider storing your stakes in a garage or barn.

[Edit]Caging Your Tomato Plants

1. Plant your tomatoes (1.2 m) apart to accommodate caging. Pick an area of your property to plant your tomatoes where they’ll be exposed to 6 or more hours of sun each day. Till the soil and mix in some manure, compost, or fertilizer. Then purchase some transplants from a local garden center, dig holes in the soil that are about (1.2 m) apart from each other, and put the root part of the plants inside.^[9]
   
   • If you want to grow the plants from seed, start germinating the seeds inside 6-8 weeks before the last frost of the spring.
2. Purchase downward tapering cylindrical cages. Go to a local garden center and purchase wire tomato cages. These typically have a cylindrical shape that’s more narrow at the base and wider towards the top.^[10]
   
   • If you have bigger plants, it might be best to make cages yourself. Roll a 5 foot (1.5 m) by 5 foot (1.5 m) section of wire fencing into a cylinder. Secure it to the ground with 2-foot (0.6 m) stakes made of wood or rebar.^[11]
   • Cages are appealing because, once they’re placed over the plant, you won’t need to prune them. This allows the plant’s leaves to grow and protect the tomatoes from the sun.
   • Potted tomato plants need support, too. Use a single stake or a tomato cage that will fit in your pot.^[12]
3. Spread a layer of mulch on top of the soil to prevent mold. Because caged tomatoes are leafier, they’re more susceptible to mold and fungus. Spread a layer of mulch evenly on the surface of the soil around the base of the plant to keep this from becoming an issue.
   
   • You can also help prevent mold by watering the soil directly instead of watering the leaves and tomatoes.
4. Put the cage over the plant and into the ground just after planting. Place the wire cages overtop of each plant and push the “legs” on the bottom of the cage into the ground. This will keep the cage stable. Whether your tomato plants are newly-sprouted seedlings or hearty transplants, do this immediately after planting to keep from damaging the plant’s roots.^[13]
   
5. Pull the stems through the cage as the plant grows. The horizontal wires on the cage are what provide support to the tomato plants. Check on each plant’s growth every few days. When the plant has grown tall enough to reach the next horizontal wire, gently pull that part of the plant through the cage so that it can rest on the wire.^[14]
   
6. Remove, clean, and store the cages in the fall. Once the weather gets cooler and there aren’t any tomatoes to harvest, pull the cages out of the ground and spray them down with a cleaning solution. Let them air dry and then stack them up in a cool, dry garage or barn until spring.^[15]
   
   • Make an easy cleaning solution by mixing 9 parts water and 1 part bleach.

[Edit]Trying Other Supporting Methods

1. Support your plants with a trellis. Wire trellises combine the concepts of single stakes and cages. To build one, pound 6 foot (1.8) poles or stakes into the ground about 10 feet (3 m) apart. Then staple or tie wire fencing to the poles so that it connects them horizontally. Plant the tomato plants about (1.2 m) apart underneath the wire and train the plants to grow up and use the wire as support.^[16]
   
   • While keeping it attached to the spool, use garden twine to tie a loop around the base of a tomato plant. Then unravel the spool while you wind it around the plant 2-3 times. Continue unraveling the spool until the twine is long enough to reach the top of the trellis. Then, cut and tie the twine to the top of the structure.
2. Try the Florida weave. Install posts just like you would with a wire trellis, and then tie long pieces of tomato twine around one of the end posts at multiple heights. Then weave the twine around the other posts and ultimately tie them to the post that’s furthest away on the other end. ^[17]
   
   • Tie a loop around the base of each plant with one end of a new piece of twine and tie the other end to the topmost woven piece of twine that makes up the structure. This way, the plants will grow up and in between the twine.
3. Use tripods and tuteurs in windy areas. Get three large 6-foot (1.8m) stakes made of wood or bamboo for each tomato plant. Wrap 2-3 thick, elastic bands around the tops of all 3 stakes and insert each end into the ground around the outside of the plant. This will provide maximum support, which is beneficial and often necessary when growing tomato plants in windy locations.^[18]
   

[Edit]Video

[Edit]Warnings

• Do not wait until your tomato plants fall over to stake them. This can result in the stalks becoming crooked.
• Do not tie tomato stalks and branches too tightly to the stakes. Leave room for the plant to continue to grow.
• Don’t opt for single stake supports if you’re growing tomatoes in an extremely hot location. This type of support exposes the tomato plants to the sun.
• Don’t opt for cages if your tomatoes are growing in a windy area. The cages may blow over and be difficult to put back into the ground properly without damaging the plant.
• Building trellises requires some manual labor. Don’t opt for this support option unless you are willing and able to install them.
• Trellises are typically permanent structures. If you want to take down the supports during the off season, go for single stakes or cages.

[Edit]Things You'll Need

[Edit]Using a Single Stake

• Hand shovel
• Manure, fertilizer, or compost
• Tomato transplants or seeds
• Stakes
• Mallet or Hammer
• Measuring tape
• Garden twine, fabric strips, or pantyhose
• Cleaning solution

[Edit]Caging Your Tomato Plants

• Hand shovel
• Manure, fertilizer, or compost
• Tomato transplants or seeds
• Mulch
• Wire cages or wire fencing
• Measuring tape
• Cleaning solution

[Edit]Trying Other Supporting Methods

• Poles or stakes
• Wire fencing
• Measuring tape
• Tomato twine
• Elastic bands

[Edit]Related wikiHows

• Tie up Tomatoes

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary

1. ↑ https://bonnieplants.com/library/how-to-support-tomatoes/
2. ↑ https://bonnieplants.com/library/how-to-support-tomatoes/
3. ↑ http://www.tomatodirt.com/tomato-stakes.html
4. ↑ https://modernfarmer.com/2015/06/how-to-grow-your-own-tomatoes-part-3-staking-training-and-pruning/
5. ↑ https://modernfarmer.com/2015/06/how-to-grow-your-own-tomatoes-part-3-staking-training-and-pruning/
6. ↑ https://modernfarmer.com/2015/06/how-to-grow-your-own-tomatoes-part-3-staking-training-and-pruning/
7. ↑ https://modernfarmer.com/2015/06/how-to-grow-your-own-tomatoes-part-3-staking-training-and-pruning/
8. ↑ http://www.tomatodirt.com/fall-cleaning-checklist-2.html
9. ↑ https://www.almanac.com/plant/tomatoes
10. ↑ https://modernfarmer.com/2015/06/how-to-grow-your-own-tomatoes-part-3-staking-training-and-pruning/
11. ↑ https://modernfarmer.com/2016/04/diy-tomato-cages/
12. ↑ https://www.tastefulgarden.com/Growing-Tomatoes-in-Containers-d9.htm
13. ↑ https://bonnieplants.com/library/how-to-support-tomatoes/
14. ↑ https://bonnieplants.com/library/how-to-support-tomatoes/
15. ↑ http://www.tomatodirt.com/fall-cleaning-checklist-2.html
16. ↑ https://bonnieplants.com/library/how-to-support-tomatoes/
17. ↑ https://thefreerangelife.com/5-ways-stake-tomatoes/
18. ↑ https://www.rodalesorganiclife.com/garden/supporting-tall-tomato-plants/slide/2

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